🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.