Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
